Quality checkpoints, testing and compliance

Inspection starts with an approved sample and agreed after-wash measurements. Shade, workmanship and packing are checked against that record before release. Laboratory tests — shrinkage, colourfastness, strength or chemical requirements — are defined with you and performed on the actual materials used for the order.

We list only the documents and audits we actually hold. If a social audit is not yet completed, we say so. We do not display certificates we do not have. Third-party testing can be arranged against your standard after a style is confirmed. Reports must relate to the actual fabric, garment and order scope.

Tell us the tests your market requires

Gold sample compared with inspection garment
Gold sample beside an inspection garment.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

Soft-tape waist measure with written record
Waist measure with a written record.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

Who owns quality

Quality is not one department’s slogan. The order plan should name who washes the garment, who measures after wash, who performs final inspection, and which laboratory — if any — issues tests for this order.

Quality ownership by party
PartyUsually responsible forWhat we confirm
Our sewing workshopPattern, cutting, sewing, finishing support, pre-shipment checks and packingPattern, cutting, sewing and pre-shipment checks are done in our workshop
Wash workshop (in-house or partner)Effect against the approved recipe, batch control, first after-wash appearanceThe order plan names the wash workshop and the inspection owner
Fabric millFabric type, composition, weight, greige defects, some fabric reportsFabric reports, when available, belong to the mill quality and the specific lot
Hardware suppliersButtons, zippers, rivets and related paperworkHardware reports belong to the supplier lot used on the order
Buyer-appointed lab or inspectorThird-party reports or inspections to the methods you nameWe can coordinate samples and access for tests or inspections you appoint

The wash responsibility — in-house or a managed partner — will be stated on the About page once confirmed, and each order plan names the wash workshop.

End-to-end map

Select a step to jump to its checkpoint in the table below.

  1. 1Incoming materials. Fabric, trims and hardware are checked before they reach the cutting table.
  2. 2Cutting. Relax, marker, grainline, left/right panels and shade lots.
  3. 3Sewing. Construction, symmetry, stitch, stress points and hardware.
  4. 4After wash. Shade, hand, after-wash measurements, damage and residue.
  5. 5Final inspection. Appearance, measurements and function against the approved sample.
  6. 6Packing. Trim threads, press, size ratio, polybag, carton marks and needle detection when specified.

Incoming checkpoint

Incoming is upstream of every later defect. Wrong or unstable fabric cannot be rescued by tidy sewing.

Incoming materials checkpoint
CheckWhat we look atHow we recordIf it failsPlain English
Fabric vs orderMill code, composition, weight, stretch or rigid, width vs approved qualityFabric card, delivery note and approved edge / retain sampleStop cutting; notify the buyer in writing — no silent substitutionIncoming fabric is checked against the approved quality. A mill substitution requires a new approval.
Visible defectsSlubs out of range, holes, oil, crease marks, heavy barsAgreed roll sampling; four-point inspection if the buyer requires itMark off or isolate the rollVisible defects are marked or the roll is isolated before cutting.
Shade / lotDepth differences between rollsHang shade cards by lot; keep lots togetherCut by lot or ask the buyer whether mixed lots are acceptableShade lots are kept together. Mixed lots are not cut into one garment without agreement.
Shrinkage & skew cluesClean edges; visible skew; mill shrinkage data on fileArchive mill data; run a small shrink trial when neededThe original pattern is not cut if pre-shrink is clearly insufficientShrinkage allowance is reviewed before the marker is finalized.
Trims & hardwareZipper length and colour, button design, rivets, patch material, main and care label artworkMatch approved sample and buyer artworkWrong trademarks or hardware with no test trail do not go on lineTrims are checked against approved artwork and the sample. Another brand’s marks are never used as a substitute.
DocumentsSupplier reports only when they relate to this lotFile only order-related paperworkExpired or unrelated reports are not used as proof for this orderA report must match the lot used. Old paperwork from another style is not reused as proof.
Incoming fabric roll / GSM check
Incoming fabric check.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

Cutting checkpoint

Cutting checkpoint
CheckWhat we look atPlain languagePlain English
Pattern versionLatest approved file; oral size changes written into the documentThe cutting table follows written specs, not a chat message saying “one centimetre shorter”Unwritten changes are not cut.
Marker & grainWarp/weft, left/right panels, pocketing and waistband on grainReversed twill looks wrong after washMarkers follow the agreed grainline and pair left and right panels.
Shrinkage allowancePattern already graded for the expected washJeans are accepted on after-wash measurements, not unwashed sizeShrinkage allowance is built in before cutting, then verified after wash.
Panel accuracyKnife drift; mixed sizes in one bundleMismatched legs often start at cuttingPanels are checked for symmetry and size identity before sewing.
Shade controlPanels for one garment from matched shade lotsFront one colour, back another is a cutting failureA garment is cut from matched shade lots.
Marker lay on cutting table
Marker lay — reused from Manufacturing.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified facility photograph. Factory photograph forthcoming.

Sewing / inline checkpoint

Sewing and inline checkpoint
CheckWhat we look atWhy buyers carePlain English
Stitch appearanceSkipped stitches, floating thread, breaks, thread colour vs sampleOn black and clean indigo, thread colour is part of the designStitch appearance follows the approved sample, including thread colour.
SymmetryBack pockets left/right, belt-loop spacing, opening heightInspectors usually look at back pockets firstBack pockets, belt loops and openings are checked for symmetry.
Fly constructionFlat fly, smooth zipper, secure stopA twisted fly will not “wash straight”The fly must sit flat and operate smoothly before wash.
Stress reinforcementPocket corners, crotch, waistband, openingsFirst tear points in wash and wearStress points agreed on the sample are reinforced and checked inline.
Hardware settingButton without fabric cut; rivet burrs; zipper protectionHardware failures become test fails or returnsHardware is set without cutting the fabric or leaving sharp edges.
Semi-finished cleanlinessOil, chalk, untrimmed threadsMarks can set in washOil and chalk marks are cleaned before garments leave sewing.

Inline checks are performed during sewing against the approved sample; the inspection plan for bulk is written into the order. We do not invent an unexecuted “every 30 minutes” cadence on the website.

After-wash checkpoint

Wash is where “looks right / measures wrong” most often appears. Wash Studio explains how the look is agreed; this table covers inspection actions.

After-wash checkpoint
CheckWhat we look atPlain languagePlain English
ShadeCompare with the approved reference under agreed lightWindow light and warm bulbs make the same black look differentShade is compared with the approved reference under agreed light, not from memory.
Effect placementWhiskers, thigh fading, seam contrast vs approved pairA photo sets direction; it does not fix left/right whisker imbalanceWhiskers and fades are judged against the approved pair, including left-right balance.
DamageHoles beyond design; over-abrasion; waistband or pocket wear-throughDistressing and damage are one thin line apartUnplanned holes, broken yarns or over-abrasion are rejected.
Hand feelSoftness, dryness, leftover chemical handleHand must be approved on a physical sampleHand feel is approved on the physical sample.
After-wash measurementsKey points with the agreed methodExport inspections often sample waist, inseam and leg opening hereAfter-wash measurements are taken with the agreed method and tolerance.
Appearance defectsWater marks, yellowing, mould, stone grit, over-press shinePacking wet garments creates smell and stainsStains, residue and shine from over-pressing are checked before garments move to final inspection.
Batch rangeDifferent wash loads within the agreed shade bandWashed black often drifts from ink black to greyBatch range is compared with the approved shade band.
After-wash measuring record
After-wash measuring record.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

A photograph sets the direction. An approved physical sample sets the standard. After-wash inspection exists to protect that sentence.

Final inspection checkpoint

Final inspection checkpoint
CheckWhat we look atNote
Against approved sampleStyle, wash, thread colour, trim positions still match the approved pairFinal inspection is not a redesign
Critical appearance defectsHoles, severe shade fail, heavy oil, missing or broken hardwareUsually unacceptable unless designed and written into the order
Minor appearance defectsThreads, slight asymmetry, local stitch instabilityHandled under the inspection plan agreed for the order — we do not invent an AQL number we do not use
MeasurementsSample by size or key points as agreedCover small, medium and large — not only the base size
FunctionZipper, button, rivet security, pocket-bag integrityChildren’s small-parts rules are stricter; we do not advertise kids’ distressed programmes we are not ready for
LabellingMain label, care label and hangtag size agreeThree different sizes on one garment is a classic full-lot return
Final inspection against gold sample
Final inspection against the approved sample.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

Final inspection follows the inspection plan agreed for the order. If you require a named sampling standard or a third-party inspector, write that in the enquiry. We do not publish an inspection code we do not use.

Packing checkpoint

Detail on fold method and carton specs lives on Packing & shipping.

Packing checkpoint
CheckWhat we look atPlain English
Clean & trimThreads trimmed; pocket bags cleanThread trimming and cleaning are completed before packing.
Press & dryFully dry; no hard crease or over-press shineGarments are packed only when dry.
Fold methodFold and protection as approved (button protectors, zipper closed)Folding follows the approved packing method.
Polybag & stickersSize sticker, style and colour match the pair insideThe pair in the bag matches the size sticker and style code.
Size ratioUnits and sizes per carton match the orderSize ratios follow the order, not a domestic default assortment.
Carton marksBuyer name, style, colour, ratio, carton number, destination, origin, order numberCarton marks follow the approved draft. A single wrong character can lose a carton in a warehouse.
Needle / metal detectionBroken needles or other metal when specifiedNeedle detection can be included when specified for the order.
Pre-pack final inspection
Pre-pack final inspection.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

Needle / metal detection: available when specified and arranged for the order. We do not illustrate a needle detector we do not operate.

Open packing & shipping

Testing dictionary

This section answers “do you test colourfastness / shrinkage / tear / metal detection?” We explain what each test looks at, name normal dark-denim behaviour, and state that tests can be arranged to your method — we do not claim tests we have not run.

Common tests in plain language
TestPlain languageWhy buyers askOur position
Colourfastness to rubbing (dry / wet crocking)A white cloth rubs the surface under a set method; wet usually transfers moreDeep indigo and black can mark light sofas or skinWet crocking on dark denim is a known challenge; we agree a written minimum at sampling and test at a named lab
Colourfastness to washingColour loss on the garment and staining on adjacent white fabric after a standard washWhat happens when the customer washes at home per the care labelCan be tested to the agreed method; recipes differ — old reports do not cover a new wash
ShrinkageChange in warp (often length) and weft (often girth) after specified wash and dryWhether the pattern built in allowance; whether the jean still fits after washJeans are accepted on after-wash size; stretch fabrics sometimes grow rather than shrink
Tear strengthHow easily the fabric tears in a given directionWhiskers, thigh fading, holes, heavy enzyme or bleach weaken clothHeavier distressing raises tear risk; over-effect may be rejected or redesigned
Tensile / seam strengthHow much pull the fabric or a seam can takeCrotch, pocket openings and waistband load in wear and washCan be tested to your method; reinforcement points are on Manufacturing
Dimensional stabilityWhether washed sizes still sit inside toleranceRelated to shrinkage, closer to garment pointsAfter-wash garments accepted with the agreed method and tolerance
Needle / metal detectionFinding broken needles or other metalSafety; some markets and buyers require itCan be arranged per order; finds are isolated and traced — we do not discuss hiding needles
Nickel release / heavy metals on hardwareWhether buttons, rivets or zippers release restricted metalsAllergy and market rulesLot reports from regular suppliers are kept when available; otherwise tested per order
Chemical / restricted substancesWhether dyes, finishes or residues exceed your RSL or market rulesBrands carry their own restricted-substance listsArranged against the standard and lab you name; we make no all-markets compliance claim without documents
Lightfastness or other add-onsSome buyers also ask light, perspiration or waterSpecific markets or light displayName them in the enquiry and we will arrange

We can arrange third-party testing against the method you name after a style is confirmed. Name the test, the method or retailer standard if you have one, and whether you will appoint the laboratory. We will not reprint another order’s report as if it belonged to yours.

Shade, measuring method and tolerance

Two pairs that look alike on a phone can fail when measured or when viewed under a D65 lightbox. Please tell us:

  1. How you measure waist, hip, rise, thigh, knee, hem and inseam;
  2. Whether measurements are after wash and after press;
  3. What tolerance you will accept at each point;
  4. Under what light shade will be judged;
  5. Whether you will approve a shade band (especially for washed black).

If these points are missing, we will ask for them before bulk. We would rather delay a cutting date than guess.

Measurement points
Measurement pointHow we measure (align with your tech pack)
WaistAcross the waistband at the agreed point (top edge or mid-band), laid flat, doubled
HipAcross at the agreed distance down from the back rise, laid flat, doubled
Front riseFront crotch seam to top of waistband
Back riseBack crotch seam to top of waistband
ThighAcross at 2.5 cm below the crotch seam, or the buyer’s stated point, doubled
KneeAcross at mid-inseam or a fixed distance from the crotch, doubled
Leg opening / hemAcross the hem edge, doubled
InseamCrotch to hem (state whether the cuff is included)
OutseamTop of waistband to hem
Waistband heightHeight of the waistband itself
Visual shade check under daylight or lightbox
Shade check against approved reference — visual shade check.

Illustrative placeholder, not a verified stock photograph.

Care labels, composition and market

Care labels must match the real fibre content and a care method the garment can survive. A stretch jean must not be labelled 100% cotton. Origin must be stated truthfully. Hangtags follow your artwork and should not carry our marketing slogans.

Labelling rules differ by market. That is why the enquiry form asks for the target sales market. Send the artwork you need, or ask us to follow the rules you specify. This page does not give advice on avoiding any country’s labelling law.

The enquiry form asks for your Target sales market as a required field.

Audit & compliance status

Statuses are only: Held / Under review / Not yet audited (or arrangeable per order). We do not invent certificate numbers. Names such as BSCI, WRAP, OEKO-TEX or ISO appear in the Held column only when the factory truly holds matching documents.

Audit and compliance status
ItemStatusWhat we can tell you
Social compliance auditNot yet auditedNot yet audited. We can discuss a buyer-arranged audit.
Quality-management certificateNo certificate claimedNo ISO certificate is claimed on this website.
Fabric restricted-substance documentsSelected fabrics may carry mill documentation (when true)Selected fabrics may carry mill documentation. That is not a blanket claim for every garment we sew.
Garment physical testsArrangeable per orderShrinkage, colourfastness and strength tests can be arranged with a laboratory you designate or accept.
Hardware & trimsSupplier reports / test per orderReports must match the lot used on this order
Wash & environmental managementTo be stated on About once confirmed (in-house or managed partner)Wastewater and responsibility facts will be stated when known; this description is being prepared.
Intellectual propertyPolicyWe do not accept counterfeit or unauthorised copies of protected designs, trademarks, pocket shapes or leather patches.

We do not display a certificate badge wall. A row changes to Held only when the factory holds the matching document.

What to write in the enquiry about testing

Please put the following in the notes field of the enquiry form, rather than adding it later in a chat:

  1. Target sales market;
  2. Test names and methods (or retailer standard names);
  3. Who appoints the laboratory;
  4. Whether a third-party inspection is required, and at which stage;
  5. Who supplies care-label and packing regulatory artwork;
  6. Whether needle / metal detection is required.

Enquiry product-notes prompt: Composition and weight, fit and size breakdown, wash, labels, testing and packing requirements.

What we confirm and what we do not claim

What we confirm

  • The approved sample is the standard
  • Checkpoints run from incoming materials through packing
  • Third-party tests can be arranged per order
  • Audits not yet completed are stated as not yet audited

What we do not claim

  • We do not show ISO / BSCI / OEKO-TEX badges we do not hold
  • We do not promise zero fading, zero shrinkage or zero emissions
  • We do not quote an AQL number we do not use
  • We do not publish certificate numbers, monthly capacity or price lists

Tell us the tests your market requires

Tell us the tests your market requires